Got in from Soweto last night at around 7:30. It's 7:30 a.m and I can't move.. Michelle and I are feeling pretty sore and wondering why we put ourselves through this yet again..
We drove down to Soweto on Saturday morning and arrived about noon.. And similar with most things in life, "you can't judge a book by its cover." When we told many people we were going to Soweto, an acronym for South West Township, they wondered why and feared for our lives... Soweto was the home of many uprisings and violence during the Anti-Apartheid movement.. it is probably the poorest community in Johannesburg, but one that seems extremely proud of its political past.. We were a bit concerned with our drive into Soweto... But, as we drove around, I couldn't help but think how cool of a place this was .. it felt like a lower class/middle class neighborhood, where everybody knew each other and had a common bond... The likes of Nelson Mandela, Bishop Tutu resided here and you can feel how proud people are of their community and their fight for freedom.. They are poor... Poor as I've seen, but not shocking.. Corrugated metal homes, with no water, no electricity, packed like sardines..... you wonder if anyone will ever make it out of some of these places..Attached is a photo of a typical Soweto shantytown...
We hit the Apartheid Museum, and I must admit, it was great to be in a museum for the first time in a year and a half.. the museum was terrific, and I learned alot... some of it I knew just from being here, but the museum itself was very well done and visually mesmerizing.. Some of the videos and photographs were fantastic... it made me sick to your stomach, but I left strangely feeling envious of the African's ability to perservere and fight for something that we essentially take for granted. the amount of racism, hatred and disrespect they experienced(and continue to experience) on their own continent was horrible.. But what's very interesting about soweto is that there is just this sense of pride and bond because of this struggle. I left wishing I was African.
www.apartheidmuseum.org/ Check it out..
Race day.... The Soweto marathon.... perfectly African, there was no idea where to go to start the race, they were still setting up the course prior to the start and i don't think the organizers told many people in the community that the race was happening(the traffic caused by the race was ridiculous...... It is called "the People's Race" and that's what it felt like.. I have never been so excited by the energy of people getting ready for a race.. They were huddled around dancing, singing and celebrating.... I would say that unlike other marathons I've run, we were the huge minority... 1 out of 50 runners were white...Needless to say, the makeup of the runners wiped out thought that we may win.. All these runners were sleek, and ready to go... Everyone else was from any number of countries, but mostly SOuth Africa.. and it seemed many from the neighborhood... It felt like being in Cincinnati, because many runners would say hello to the spectators or even run over to give them a hug..
It surprisingly started on time and the course itself stayed in Soweto... We ran through dusty old streets lined with shacks and middle class cement block homes... Very little english was spoken during the race.. I could hear Setswana, Zulu, Siswati and I'm sure other languages... But even though we were completely on the outside, people were so kind and inviting(perfectly African). I had a young boy with no shoes on and dressed in rags sense I was struggling, ran next to me saying " come on, you can do it... faster , faster..." He held my hand and we ran for about a Km together... I ran with a group of Africans who were singing and chanting the whole time... " Easy!! easy!!! Take it Easy!! easy!!" the whole time. The spectators would chime in offering us shots of beer and other alcoholic beverages.. It was 7:30 am.
"oh my God!!!" That's what I was saying most of the time to myself during this race.. This was, hands down, the most difficult course I have ever run.. Everyone agreed.. There were at least 20 hills on the course.. some of them the equivalent of the cut in the hill.... It was demoralizing.. I don't think training in Botswana helped, considering it is the flattest place in the world... I was on pace to run a 3hr50minute marathon.. and about mile 20 I cramped up and mentally was defeated... The last 6 miles, I think I walked 3 and ran 3.. Ended up at about at 4hr. 30 min.. It was rough.. But the course, as difficult as it was, was great because it was strictly through Soweto.. Full of character, charm and history... Dead rats on the road, coke was offered at the drink stations.. bags of water as opposed to cups.... and the only marathon where the children on the street begged you for water(which was very sad). Michelle ran next to many barefoot runners and a woman who ran with homemade shoes... tire tread cut in the shape of her feet...strapped with masking tape.. Michelle said the woman with tire shoes ran right past her.. Unfortunately, Michelle had to stop for about 30 minutes to assist a man who had a heart attack during the race... She doesnt think he was in good shape obviously.. I'll spare you the details, but she thinks that he probably passed away. I'm not surprised though, the course was so rough and the heat was difficult to work through as well...
We ended up having about 8 runners from Baylor join us and I think it was a great experience.. Our travels to South Africa are finished.. We had our last border crossing, our last trip to what everyone calls a very dangerous country.. But we have never had anything but a great trip. .. I will miss South Africa for its natural beauty.. and with Soweto, I'll never forget the spirit of togetherness of the people. If you ever feel the urge to go to South Africa, I highly recommend Soweto.
recovering today, and making plans for a celebration night/ or depressing night on Wednesday(depending on the election) . One month left here... driving through south Africa as the sun went down last night... absolutely beautiful.
